Saturday, October 27, 2012

North End Grill

I find it strange that there is a street called "North End" at the southern tip of Manhattan.  But that was the only strange thing about our experience at the North End Grill.  With a client turned friend in town, we headed down to Zagat's "best newcomer of 2012."

North End Grill spent the larger part of the year on my list because I needed the right diners to join me: seafood lovers who can handle the heat.  Tabla's closing was restaurateur Danny Meyer's windfall because Meyer scooped up the acclaimed Floyd Cardoz.  Cardoz was born in India but trained in Europe so he is accustomed to incorporating Indian flavors, like cumin and curry leaves, into different types of food.

Meyer and Cardoz took their surroundings, namely the Hudson River, as inspiration for the menu.  The majority of the menu is pulled from the sea...and spicy.  A different type of fish, namely Goldman Sachs traders, must have inspired the wall of Scotches in the bar.

North End Grill's dining room decor is modern chic, which is fun for modernists and boring for everyone else.  The service was nearly perfect.  The servers and busboys buzzed around the restaurant with what appeared to be a Xanax induced happiness.  Our meal was evenly paced and our water (and wine ;)) glasses were frequently replenished.  Speaking of wine, North End Grill's wine menu offered selections from several regions and at a wide range of price points, offering items for the average diner and the expense account diner. 

Overall, our experience at North End Grill was top notch.  While I preferred some dishes over others, I did not have a single complaint for the night.  I always say in life, you get what you pay for, so be prepared to come with a credit card and equally prepared to leave with a smile. 


What to Eat:

Start with the Soft Scrambled Eggs with Ruby Red Shrimp on Grilled Whole Wheat Bread.  The creamy, slow cooked eggs are mixed with large, fresh shrimp and piled high over toasted whole wheat bread.  This was hands down the best appetizer we ordered (we tried several) and a must.  Also, this dish is not spicy at all so for someone looking for a mild dish, this is a good option.









For entrees, I'll offer up a shellfish and fish option because both were fantastic and it is hard to pick one over the other.  For shellfish lovers, go with the Seared Scallops with Pole Beans and Coconut Curry.  The four jumbo scallops are perfectly seared and tasted like they were caught earlier that morning.  I loved the contrast of the textures in the dish: crunchy pole beans versus smooth scallops. Be warned, the coconut curry gives of a slow heat so make sure to pick a side that will temper it.









If you do not like shellfish, order the Halibut with Grilled Cauliflower and Cider Jus.  The light halibut falls apart in delicate slices and is nicely contrasted by a spicy seasoning.  The buttery, mashed cauliflower will be your key to balancing the heat in your mouth. 












For sides, go with the Grilled Sweet Corn and Red Onions. The caramelized red onions jazz up an otherwise simple dish.  The corn season is ending shortly and spoonfuls of this side will make you nostalgic for the warm weather we won't feel for months.

Also, I liked the flavor of the Trice Spiced Fries but they were over cooked for me.  Usually, you get a mix of crispy fries and mushier fries.  I know people fall into two camps when it comes to fries: crispy lovers and mushy lovers.  I prefer the later.  The fries at North End Grill all arrived very crispy.  So if you are into crispy fries, pick this side because the Indian spices are fantastic.






Save room for dessert if you can.  I poked my head in the dessert station and asked the women putting the finishing touches on desserts to recommend a few.  I went with one of her suggestions, the Salt Honey Bread Pudding with Roasted Apples, Pecans and Buttermilk Sherbet.  The slightly salty and sweet spongy bread brings your mouth back to a cool temperature while the roasted apples and pecans remind you that fall is here (and fleeting!).  After an evening of exciting spices, this was the perfect way to end the night.

Skip:

The clam pizza and the crab and avocado salad.  The crab and avocado salad was deconstructed, which made the dish seem like it was trying to hard. Creative? Kind of.  Satisfying? Not really.  The clam pizza had a nice doughy consistency but the flavor was lackluster compared to the other items we ordered.

Best newcomer of 2012? Only if you can handle the heat,

Your foodie friend

Insider tip: North End Grill features a state of the art open kitchen.  If you are dining alone, snag a seat along the kitchen counter for entertainment.

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