Monday, December 29, 2014

Upland

Upland is Justin Smillie's take of Italian food with a Northern California twist.  The Northern Californianess (I know that's not a real word) is comforting this time of year. And because it is freezing outside (at least for me), I find myself drawn to pasta and pizza, my favorite comfort foods.  The few block walk is also a plus as I have grown (relatively) lazy with the chill in the air.

Because we didn't get to try everything I wanted the first time, I waited to do this review until I went back the second time.  Both experiences were impressively consistent.  First, the staff delivers impeccable service, something that has become few and far between in NYC.  The server and maitre di checked on us several times.  The food arrived at a nice pace.  Even the hostess on the way out asked if we enjoyed our meal.  Even though Upland is a few months old, each staff member is extremely well vetted and trained.  It must be the Californianess in the restaurant ;)

Upland sends out a freshly baked potato brioche loaf shortly after you order.  Your server and busboy will continue to deliver this warm bread at your request (without judgment or hesitation).  The buttery and slightly salted, doughy heaven in the shape of a loaf is addictive.

While we enjoyed several dishes, there are definitely a few misses (one of which is no longer on the menu).  The House Made Ricotta doesn't work.  The consistency of the cheese was spot on but the lemon taste was confusing and the cucumbers and anchovies didn't belong.  Also, the much hyped short rib was good but not the stand out I was expecting.

The wine menu was solid, although nothing terribly exciting.  I went with the Pinot Noir by the glass on my first trip there and was impressed by the quality of the wine served by the glass.

What to Eat:

To start, order the 'Nudja Pizza.  The restaurant is willing to do the tomato sauce without pork.  The bubbly dough is coated with tangy marinara sauce and fresh buffalo mozzarella.  It is likely that all the pizzas at Upland are terrific but this one, while simple, is delicious.

The surprise hit of the night was the Slow Roasted Celeriac.  While this root vegetable is similar to a potato, there is something more compelling about the celeriac.  This may be attributable to the generous helping of black truffle butter melted on top.

For pasta, go with the Pappardelle with spicy sausage ragu, kale and Parmesan.  The home made noodles taste like they were made a few hours earlier.  The savory, salty sausage sauce was a huge hit at our table. 

Since the dessert menu was a bit underwhelming, we went elsewhere for dessert.

While I enjoyed my experiences at Upland (dish misses aside), I wonder if it will resonate in NYC.  It just doesn't feel like it belongs here.

That said, looking for upscale, trendy pizza and pasta?  Upland gets the job done.

Your foodie friend



Monday, December 15, 2014

Florian

The old Wildwood BBQ restaurant just north of Union Square has been traded in for Florian, a swanky Italian restaurant.  By the end of the meal, it was tough for us to decide which was better, the excellent food or the terrific service.  A good "problem" for a restaurant to have.  Despite dining at Florian only a few days after it had opened, the entire experience was flawless.

I marveled at the antipasta and burrata bar at the front of the restaurant, featuring both traditional offerings and a few unusual options.  The antipasta barista (is it fair to call him that??) greeted us warmly and showed us around his impressive spread.

We arrived 15 minutes before our reservations and instead of being reminded that we were early and guided to the bar, we were promptly seated.  The server greeted us shortly thereafter and answered our 20 questions with a genuine smile and patience.

The tall ceilings at Florian helped to ensure that the packed dining room didn't result in a shouting match to hear your dining companion.  And it true Italian style, the meal was paced long and leisurely.

Focaccia is delivered upon request (MAKE THE REQUEST).  The bread basket offers slices of a dense multigrain bread topped with a medley of seeds (featured) and more traditional focaccia (underneath the multigrain bread), both of which were doughy and freshly baked.

The Italian centric wine menu at Florian is a breath of fresh air.  I was pleased to see reds at price points that all diners could afford.  If we ordered the steak for two, which I plan on going back for, I would have gone for a heavier wine but for our fish and pasta, we opted for Colutta, a Riposso from Fruili, which was spicy, light, and delicious.

What to Eat:

The Vegetable Antipasta.  There are over a dozen options so I picked the first three that jumped out at me: Sweet Carrots with Fennel, TriColored Cauliflower with Currants and Green Beans.  I don't like fennel but the sweet carrots were so good I kind of forgot about my hate on fennel.  The Cauliflower was roasted, generously doused with EVOO and then mixed with currants.  The Cauliflower was so good (and generously covered in EVOO) that Mitch actually ate the cauliflower happily (Mitch doesn't eat vegetables, or rather, his idea of vegetables is creamed spinach).

The Lasagna Osso Bucco.  I wasn't sure what to expect because I've never had osso bucco in my lasagna before but since I like osso bucco and and I like lasagna, I figured, why not?  As you can see from the picture, the restaurant goes for a round shape instead of square serving, which was aesthetically interesting.  Each bite of the homemade pasta had the right amount of gooey cheese and sweet tomato sauce.  While enjoyable, I think the dish could use a bit more osso bucco.

Because we had show tickets that evening, we ran out of time for dessert but I plan on returning to try the steak for 2 (which looked insane and was raved about by nearby diners) and the dessert (I will probably need to order a few, as it will be difficult to choose between the homemade chocolate mousse, chocolate pizza, etc...).

Need a dinner reservation this weekend?  The food, wine and fantastic service at Florian should warm and fill you up.

Your foodie friend

Monday, December 1, 2014

Crave Fishbar

My husband's best friend recommended Crave shortly after my blogging hiatus.  Since it has become my go to restaurant in NYC, I thought it earned the right to be my 100th post!  Crave's best entrees highlight two of my favorites food groups, seafood and pasta.  While the seafood offerings change seasonally, the flavor combinations are consistently novel, surprising and delicious.  I make it here about once a month, sometimes (ok, usually) more.  I am always impressed that they remember my name and greet me warmly (keep in mind readers, these guys had no idea I wrote a food blog).  In the 11 years I've lived in NYC, I've dined regularly at several places but Crave is one of the only restaurants in NYC that has gone out of its way to make me feel at home.

Crave's decor plays up a nautical theme, with thick ship ropes, jelly fish tentacled wallpaper, round mirrors that emulate portholes and strategically placed ship captain portraits.  The restaurant now offers two floors, with outdoor seating on both floors.  If the weather is nice, dining outside is my first choice.  Now that it is winter, however, I request the seating upstairs.  Upstairs is a bit more quiet and spacious, perfect for a low key Friday night after a long work week.  That said, if you are up for a more lively crowd/evening, downstairs features a long bar and high tops.

In addition to hostesses and maitre d's that warmly acknowledge repeat guests, the wait staff is excellent.  The servers are attentive from their initial greeting to check delivery and the busboys never leave water glasses empty or empty plates lingering on the table.

What to Eat:

Crave changes its menu seasonally, which means right now you can still order the Blue Crab and Baby Heirloom Tomato salad.  The fresh jumbo lump crab is generously piled on top of a layer of sweet baby heirloom tomatoes and then drizzled with EVOO.  With heavier entrees on my horizon, this was the perfect light start to the meal.


For a heartier appetizer (and something that will likely appear through the winter months), pick the Rice Dusted Point Judith Calamari, a new addition to the menu.  The lightly battered calamari is tossed in a Thai miso sauce along with aleppo chile and bean sprouts.  The chile is not very spicy for those that can't handle the heat.  The calamari strikes the perfect consistency, not too chewy, not to hard.  And by some miracle, it is practically grease free.

My favorite summer/fall entree on the Crave menu is the Scallops with corn, queso fresca and avocado salsa.  It is always sad to see it go in the winter (party because I miss the dish and partly because it signifies winter's arrival, to the bane of my existence).  The medium sized scallops are perfectly seasoned and sauteed.  I find the avocado salsa an interesting pairing that surprisingly works for the scallops (I am actually prone to putting avocado on everything so why not scallops too?).   

While Crave is known for its seafood, I think their homemade Cavatelli with whipped ricotta, tomato ragu and basil puree is one of the better pasta dishes in NYC.  The delicate yet dense hand crafted noodles are mixed with a tangy tomato sauce, and then topped with a large portion of garlicky pesto and freshly whipped ricotta cheese (there's a hot pepper on top too for those interested).  Mix the ingredients together before serving to ensure that that all of the flavors make it into each bite.



Looking to shed a few lbs from your Turkey dinner?  Crave's seafood should do the trick.

Your foodie friend

Insider tip: Check out the Mussel Monday special, $17 for 2lbs of mussels and a side of crispy fries, and Dollar Oysters from 5-7pm for happy hour daily.  Also, the Cauliflower Soup on the dinner menu is TO DIE FOR.