Upland

Upland is Justin Smillie's take of Italian food with a Northern California twist.  The Northern Californianess (I know that's not a real word) is comforting this time of year. And because it is freezing outside (at least for me), I find myself drawn to pasta and pizza, my favorite comfort foods.  The few block walk is also a plus as I have grown (relatively) lazy with the chill in the air.

Because we didn't get to try everything I wanted the first time, I waited to do this review until I went back the second time.  Both experiences were impressively consistent.  First, the staff delivers impeccable service, something that has become few and far between in NYC.  The server and maitre di checked on us several times.  The food arrived at a nice pace.  Even the hostess on the way out asked if we enjoyed our meal.  Even though Upland is a few months old, each staff member is extremely well vetted and trained.  It must be the Californianess in the restaurant ;)

Upland sends out a freshly baked potato brioche loaf shortly after you order.  Your server and busboy will continue to deliver this warm bread at your request (without judgment or hesitation).  The buttery and slightly salted, doughy heaven in the shape of a loaf is addictive.

While we enjoyed several dishes, there are definitely a few misses (one of which is no longer on the menu).  The House Made Ricotta doesn't work.  The consistency of the cheese was spot on but the lemon taste was confusing and the cucumbers and anchovies didn't belong.  Also, the much hyped short rib was good but not the stand out I was expecting.

The wine menu was solid, although nothing terribly exciting.  I went with the Pinot Noir by the glass on my first trip there and was impressed by the quality of the wine served by the glass.

What to Eat:

To start, order the 'Nudja Pizza.  The restaurant is willing to do the tomato sauce without pork.  The bubbly dough is coated with tangy marinara sauce and fresh buffalo mozzarella.  It is likely that all the pizzas at Upland are terrific but this one, while simple, is delicious.

The surprise hit of the night was the Slow Roasted Celeriac.  While this root vegetable is similar to a potato, there is something more compelling about the celeriac.  This may be attributable to the generous helping of black truffle butter melted on top.

For pasta, go with the Pappardelle with spicy sausage ragu, kale and Parmesan.  The home made noodles taste like they were made a few hours earlier.  The savory, salty sausage sauce was a huge hit at our table. 

Since the dessert menu was a bit underwhelming, we went elsewhere for dessert.

While I enjoyed my experiences at Upland (dish misses aside), I wonder if it will resonate in NYC.  It just doesn't feel like it belongs here.

That said, looking for upscale, trendy pizza and pasta?  Upland gets the job done.

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